“Italy is about developing relationships,” J.J. Martin, the Milan-based journalist-turned-designer, told me over a Zoom call. “So if you think of your trip that way, you’re going to have a way deeper experience.”
Martin made Italy her adopted home more than two decades ago. In 2015, she founded her fashion and homeware brand La DoubleJ in Milan. The brand is known for its bold and fun prints, which has since made Martin a staple on the world fashion scene. She has traveled extensively throughout Italy, making friends and “developing relationships.”
“When I go into a shop, I don’t just go, buy something, and leave. I sit, I talk to the shopkeeper. This whole conversation-and-relationship-building needs to happen with taxi drivers, waiters, restaurant owners, shop owners, and anyone you’re dealing with. And I think that’s a really beautiful thing,” she said.
Martin just published her first book, “Mamma Milano,” out now, in which she documents her journey and “unlikely love story” with the bel paese. It is a visually stunning tome, a love letter to Italy, where Martin reveals, with humor and candor, all the lessons “Mamma Milano” taught her.
That’s why we asked about her favorite under-the-radar spots to unwind in Italy — here’s where she led us.
Alberto Zanetti
Pesaro
Sitting on the Adriatic coast in Le March region, Pesaro is the birthplace of Italian composer Gioachino Rossini and has been a UNESCO City of Music since 2017.
Martin spent a lot of time here after she moved to Italy and loves the town for its charm and beachside villas, including the spectacular art nouveau Villa Ruggeri.
When she visits, Martin stays at Hotel Excelsior, a beachfront boutique property with a spa and a private beach club with elegant umbrellas and chaise lounges, waterfront dining, and hot tubs.
If you’re in the mood for designer shopping, Martin recommended heading to Ratti boutique for a chic selection of brands like Balenciaga, Dolce&Gabbana, and La DoubleJ (Martin is now friends with the boutique’s owners). Zucca, another one of Martin’s picks, is a vintage design store offering 20th-century furnishings and objets d’art.
Alberto Zanetti
Forte dei Marmi
This Tuscan beachside town is the summer go-to vacation spot for Florentines and the birthplace of the Negroni.
“Forte dei Marmi has miles and miles of beach clubs with restaurants, changing cabins, colorful umbrellas, and beautiful lounge chairs that people rent for the season,” Martin explains. You will find Martin taking in the beautiful vistas at Bagno Piero, an exclusive beach club frequented by Italy’s elite. Twiga, a restaurant and nightclub, is one of Forte dei Marmi’s most sought-after addresses.
“I just love the easy life in Forte dei Marmi. There is just something really cozy. You see a lot of Italian families, and I love it for that,” she added.
Alberto Zanetti
Palermo
“Palermo is sensational. It is so elegant and sophisticated. It has the most incredible architecture,” Martin said, noting that she loves walking its streets and admiring its Sicilian Baroque churches from the 15th and 16th centuries. Martin advised making time to visit Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi, an exquisite Rococo palazzo with Gilded mirrors and hand-painted ceramic floors (the 1960s Italian classic “The Leopard” with Alain Delon, Burt Lancaster, and Claudia Cardinale was filmed there), and Dell’Oglio boutique. Another reason to add Palermo to your itinerary? The people.
“Once you meet a Sicilian, they’re friends for life, and they’ll do anything for you. Italians are so friendly, but the friendliest Italians in the entire country are in Sicily,” she added.
Alberto Zanetti
Puglia
The southern city of Puglia is known for its picture-perfect coastline, wine, and olive oil. Martin is vegetarian, and she loves the food in Puglia because it’s an excellent example of the Mediterranean diet. Her favorite dish is fava e cicoria, pureed fava beans with sautéed chicory greens.
“My other favorite thing from there is the local, warm ricotta cheese that you eat for breakfast,” she explained.
