Dazed’s fashion week photographers on the chaos and magic of SS24

After pit stops in NY, London, Milan, and Paris two times over, for both men’s and women’s, the SS24 fashion season is over – and truly, what a season it was. The latest shows can be characterised by a handful of things, like profuse sweating across the board, on account of stratospheric temperatures in both June, and more unseasonably, September. It was the season of the runway crasher, as PETA protesters infiltrated runways across all four cities. And it was the season of the bedbug, which is seemingly the hottest accessory for SS24 – although also the most unwanted one, unlike Bottega’s big new bags, Miu Miu’s skimpy underpants, or Loewe’s silly uninflated balloon heels.

It was also the season of some really fab clothes, both on the catwalk and the concrete outside, plus a whole lot of stellar celeb sightings, all of which Dazed’s army of photographers captured on camera as they dashed from venue to venue and assembled both backstage and out front as the crowds poured into the venues. Braving torrential downpours and burning sun, seas of screaming K-pop stans, and the Paris traffic, Cris Fagkou, Jamie-Maree Shipton, Yu Fujiwara, Morgane Maurice, Darrel Hunter, Andrew Tess, and Chester McKee unfalteringly showed up document everything going down, Polaroids and point & shoot cameras in hand.

If you landed on Dazed across the season, it’s highly likely you’ve spotted their work. But what did they have to say about the SS24 shows? From stellar soundtracks, to hairy moments caught up in crowds, to the best parties – and skipping those entirely in favour of staying in bed – we asked them their high points, low points and everything in-between. Scroll down to read more and see their fave pics.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

Mugler was a huge stand out for me. From the soundtrack, the casting and the wind machines – it gave everything a show should have.

Best show space and why?

The Château of Vincennes for Loewe. Was a nice little getaway from Paris city centre x

Best soundtrack and why?

Mugler – I have been listening to the soundtrack since I left the show.

Most chaotic moment?

Running from the Y/Project show across Paris to see Usher live.

Best party?

Dazed x Wooyoungmi, of course.

Tell us some tea from backstage/the streets?

The bedbugs are coming.

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

Robyn.

Best outfit?

Big fan of the men’s looks at Marni

Which city wins for you this season?

Paris.

High point?

Not getting bed bugs!

Low point?

Paying €20 for a Croque Monsieur

Model to watch?

Alex Consani!

What item do you have your eyes on for the SS24 season?

Miu Miu men’s please!

Top fashion season tip?

Drink water and have a laff.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

AVAVAV collection since the runway was super relatable.

Best show space and why?

Anna Delvey’s pre-war roof because it definitely wasn’t up to code.

Best soundtrack and why?

Collina Strada giving us an orchestration of TATU’s “NOT GONNA GET US” and then ending the show with a performance by KING PRINCESS was major honestly.

Most chaotic moment?

The models from SHAO’s NYFW show being ushered off a bus by Kelly Cutrone in the rain in the East Village with police sirens blazing and into Anna Delvey’s pre-war walkup, while the likes of SLAYYYTER, Nicola Formichetti and Anna’s elderly downstairs neighbour watched while bringing up her groceries.

Best party?

Dion Lee after party at the Boom Boom Room.

Tell us some tea from backstage/the streets?

Everyone was scrambling.

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

I love when I get to capture duos on my Polaroid camera. Hayley Williams with Avril Lavinge was special. Lola Leon and Eartheater. Christy Turlington and Edward Burns. The Duponts. Anna and Kelly.

Best outfit?

Palomo Spain’s look eight, which I photographed on Jonathan at the Plaza then Lil Nas X in two days later at the VMAS.

Which city wins for you this season?

NY, cause as Kelly Cutrone told Dazed on Anna Delvey’s roof: “No one even cares about New York you’re all going to Paris to talk about Balenciaga or Givenchy fuck you Dazed anyways we are standing here on September 11″.

High point?

The humidity was quite high.

Low point?

Getting caught in the rain.

Model to watch?

Jordan Firstman in Paris.

What item do you have your eyes on for the SS24 season?

I love the Palomo Spain x Bimba y Lola rose tote pocket bag.

Top fashion season tip?

Plan on dressing for humidity, snow, sunshine, and rain all in one day when you’re in NYC.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

Favourite show was All-In, such a funnnn vibe and loved that each model had a different personality. The collection was also amazing.

Best show space and why?

I loved Hodakova’s show space, the intimate theatre with a view of the Eiffel Tower outside – so chic.

Best soundtrack and why?

Mugler, especially being backstage for that show – everyoneeee was dancing and going wild!

Most chaotic moment?

The chaos actually becomes so normal I can’t even pinpoint just one.

Best party?

Staying in bed editing lol.

Tell us some tea from the streets/backstage?

Best tea was when Irina was asked to smile backstage at Viv Westwood and she just simply wouldn’t, and when she was continuously asked she simply said “no”. Tell them!

Fave person you spotted?

Fave person I saw was Paris Hilton backstage at Mugler, she was just so happy to be there.

Best outfit from the streets?

Probably this kid outside Rick Owens who was wearing a top that said Delusional Cunt – aren’t we all lol.

Fave city this season?

I love Paris, they have no concept of what a week is, but the amount they squish into ten days is amazing. I also loved all the new designers that took space there this season.

High point?

Seeing all the amazing women walking at the Mugler show.

Low point?

When people still complain about being here – we are so blessed, the little girl in me never would have dreamed this would be my life!

Model to watch?

COLIN FUCKING JONES. She was everywhere and everything and ALWAYS brought the right energy, such positive force.

What do you have your eye on for your wardrobe next season?

A Blumarine transparent perspex dress – watch me walk down the aisle in that!

Top fashion season tip?

Hydrate, and always wear sunglasses so no one can see how tired you are.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

I may be biased but my favourite show was Mugler, stellar cast, electric energy, beautiful and dramatic. Favourite collection Noir Kei Ninomiya, some pieces were works of art. And I admit I cried a bit watching the McQueen finale.

Best show space and why?

I didn’t see it in person but Rick Owens looked pretty cool.

Best soundtrack and why?

All the Mr Oizo songs at Stella McCartney, the 10am rave I didn’t know I needed.

Most chaotic moment?

Being stuck in a bus on Rue de Rivoli waiting for the bomb squad, trying to get to the next show, in 30 degrees heat, with babies crying and 100s of cars honking.

Best party?

In my bed, whenever I could finally sleep.

Tell us some tea from backstage/the streets?

I’d probably get sued by a very famous family of five sisters…

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

Damon Albarn in London, Paris Hilton in Paris. All about balance. And I will always shriek on the inside when I see Naomi.

Best outfit?

Usher in a full polka dot red and black Marni suit was fun. My mom called him a ladybug and I can never unsee it, but what does she know?

Which city wins for you this season?

Paris for the shows, London for the vibes.

High point?

Chatting to Coco Rocha, who was super nice, at an afterparty on top of the Eiffel Tower. Dresses with butterflies in them.

Low point?

The crowds, quiet luxury, female photographers being harassed.

Model to watch?

Dolly Baby.

What item do you have your eyes on for the SS24 season?

A Coperni CD bag.

Top fashion season tip?

Investing in some Airtags for next season!

Favourite show?

Oh god. One collection? Can I say Chopova, Simone, Kiko and Zomer re; collections because I feel like they embody everything I wanna express in the whole wide world: colour, joy, infinite shapes, textures, weirdness, and boundlessness. Show-wise, Comme – girl idk why but i was in tears so… Also Margiela because it was beautiful and every element of it reminded me of why we work in fashion – the whole thing makes my inner child feel really proud. Plus both those shows do NOT care about celeb hysteria and put their guests and fashion first and it makes my heart full.

Best show space and why?

Chopova Lowena cause it was a fuckin’ skate park?

Best soundtrack?

Chopova!!!!! All the music from my youth and my heart. Also OMG that Sinéad O’Connor remix at Dior – okay Maria GC!

Most chaotic moment?

Outside just about every big show trying to get to the front door. Never ever seen fans this hungry for a glimpse of celebs. Probably because there were more celebs than ever? Particularly chaotic was when a K-pop fan got through security by pretending to be part of the star’s team then got tackled. And then she proceeded to yell that it was the best day of her life [lol???]

Best party?

The one with DJ LUCIEN PAGES and DJ Carlos Nazarrio, and Nicholas di Felice and Juergen Teller – absolutely finished.

Tell us some tea from backstage/the streets?

Hard no It was a little bit intense out there this season. But in positive news a video got released of a really aggressive and misogynistic backstage photographer and is doing the rounds so maybe that’ll finally mean he no longer shows up!!

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

Like fave ‘i love you so much you make me feel normal and safe!’ person? Because then Steff Yotka, Grace V, Alix, Edward Buchanan. And also Maria Elena and David and Willa and Jonathan Ros and Giulia and team Dazed and everyone backstage and… No stop, is this a test to see if I cry? I love a lot of people in this business.

If you mean my fave as in ‘never expected this?’ BECAUSE THEN HAYLEY WILLIAMS.

Best outfit?

Me in Kiko and Online Ceramics.

High point?

Seeing Cher perform live. one metre from my literal face. And photographing her for H&M x RABANNE!!!! Seeing my first ever campaign in a window? Big achievement!!

Low point?

A three-day fever in NYC and then the whole of Milan because of all that rain and a little wobble over four released options and somehow feeling like an absolute failure? i was three seconds away from quitting to become a primary school teacher instead – but also a sob in the rain round the corner from Prada is very on brand for me so we move and keep the faith! My covers are coming!

Model to watch?

A newish face, Barathy Akkan, she’s so cool and unique and kind and fantastically dressed and jewelled! I also think Anok will be the queen of the revolution. But actually i can’t pick one – watch them all. They are, next to us photographers, the most exhausted and hard pushed and I don’t actually know how they can stand all day with eight hands touching them all at once while being yelled at and poked and prodded and I take my hat off to each and every one of them. Thank god for their familiar faces in the chaos and I high key love all of them and feel very lucky and proud to watch them all grow and to share a laugh on the daily with them. 10/10 you guys all killed it

What item do you have your eyes on for the SS24 season?

My sanity! I joke: the Chopova long shorts and actually all the long shorts and the boxers seen everywhere. The whole of SS24 was super dykey, v well done.

Top fashion season tip?

Find a friend. surrender as best you can. don’t gaslight yourself, it’s okay if it sucks. Also try to list three things you’re thankful for every day even when it’s hard [to balance the complaints so you don’t spiral!] Save the partying for Paris when it’s really worth it. Listen to paramore once a day.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

In terms of shooting people outside the show, Enfants Riches Deprimés was a good show to shoot. Generally I like to shoot people who genuinely love a particular brand and wear it or put together an outfit that has a similar vibe to the brand. There was a good mixture of people outside this show.

Best show space and why?

18 Rue Auber, where Junya Watanabe and Ottolinger had shows this season. It’s a small space with limited access to the entrance/exit which doesn’t make it easy for the guests to enter the show, but makes it more interesting and easy for me to shoot!

Best soundtrack and why?

“Habanera” from Carmen by Georges Bizet. I always seem to have this in my head when shooting.

Most chaotic moment?

Outside the Westwood show, there was a mixture of Westwood fans and people who just wanted to get attention.

Best party?

Cooking at my kitchen.

Tell us some tea from backstage/the streets?

Someone said something to someone. Filmed, Shared, Comment, Repeat.

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

Security.

Best outfit?

Don’t give a fuck attitude.

Which city wins for you this season?

Paris. New York felt slightly down compared to last year. But still nice.

High point?

Cheaper film prices in the US.

Low point?

Expensive film price in Paris and the UK.

Model to watch?

Barathy Akkan.

What item do you have your eyes on for the SS24 season?

Something solid, ceramic.

Top fashion season tip?

Eat well, sleep well.

Favourite show or collection from fashion week and why?

Miu Miu, Prada, Y/Project.

Most chaotic moment?

Any time a K-Pop star arrives at a show.

Best party?

Didn’t do any this season.

Fave person you saw at fashion week?

Too many to mention.

Best outfit?

Jess Wills always has great style.

Which city wins for you this season?

Would have to be Paris.

High point?

Seeing friends.

Low point?

September 12th.

Model to watch?

Maty Fall Diba.