The last look on the runway at virtually every fashion show belongs to the designer, and his or her choice might surprise you.
WWD went backstage during fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris to ask the question: What is your uniform when you take the bow?
Kim Jones, artistic director of haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections for women of Fendi:
“I’ve got my lovely Lalanne brooch that Silvia and Delfina [Venturini Fendi] gave me for my birthday. I love Lalanne — who doesn’t? I find [dressing for my bow] quite stressful. I am not really a public-facing person as much as possible…it’s like the worst thing for me in the world. I just do it and get on with it.”
Giorgio Armani:
Armani said the color blue “always suits” him, as he is “careful colors never become too excessive” on him.
Jonathan Anderson, creative director of JW Anderson and Loewe:
“Loewe boots, denim and a navy sweater. It’s always the same. It’s just something I don’t need to think about.”
Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain:
“Every time, I [intend to] wear shorts and sneakers because half of my day, I’m in sneakers and shorts. But at the end of the day…I need to add my shoulders to face you guys. This fashion industry is tough so I need my shoulders to support. A tailored jacket is something that I have to wear.”
Sabato De Sarno, creative director of Gucci:
De Sarno was sporting black T-shirt and pants, saying that simply put, he always wears black.
Olivier Rousteing on the runway at Balmain RTW Spring 2024.
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Glenn Martens, creative director of Y/Project and Diesel:
“I’m super sweaty because I’m touching every single look until they go on the runway, so I try to wear something very basic and simple. But I do have [on] Y/Project Evergreen, which is our sustainable base brand line.”
Matthew M. Williams, creative director of Givenchy:
“It changes depending on the season. Today, [a T-shirt found in Japan], Givenchy boots and some Alyx pants.”
Matthieu Blazy, creative director of Bottega Veneta:
“I dress like I do every day. In general, it’s my favorite white T-shirt and my 501s.”
Ian Griffiths, creative director of Max Mara:
“I have a good luck ritual every day, which is I have to make sure I’ve got a pocket square. And it has to be the right one. There are some which are luckier than others.”
Maximilian Davis, creative director of Ferragamo:
“A crewneck sweater and a straight-leg trouser.…I just try to be calm.”
Filippo Grazioli, designer of Missoni:
“My uniform is going to be completely white. During my research in the archive of Missoni, I discovered they never use optical white and for me, [it] is really a color as well.…It really brings the light, the real value of each color. The charms I’m always wearing are my grandfather’s ring, quartz because it brings new energy and [a whistle].”
Massimo Giorgetti, founder and creative director of MSGM:
“Something easy — a cargo trouser, cotton T-shirt and a cotton shirt.”
Charaf Tajer, founder and creative director of Casablanca:
“Every time it’s different but this time, I wanted to wear a suit to honor Nigeria and Lagos.”
Roksanda Ilinčić, founder and creative director of Roksanda:
“It’s usually the dresses that didn’t make it to the lineup. I dress how I feel, I’m spoilt for choice I must say.”
Erdem Moralıoğlu, founder and creative director of Erdem:
“I wear the exact same thing every day, usually New Balance trainers, jeans and a sweater, that’s for everyday life and any situation.”
Marco Capaldo, cofounder and creative director of 16Arlington:
“I’m always in black. This is my uniform. A lot of people ask me that. I think when you have to make so many creative decisions, you want to almost act as a blank canvas yourself. It’s one less thing to think about.”
Ermanno Scervino:
“I’m not superstitious, and I always look the same, in a white shirt, tailored jacket and jeans. I rely on my thoughts, and look inward for good luck.”
Philipp Plein:
“I have a cross since I’ve been praying every day since I’ve been six years old. And I have a bracelet with the two names of my sons. Rocket is my little one, Romeo is the big one — and then we have Rouge, who is coming in a couple of hours. So we just want to finish here, go the hospital and have a baby.”
Dimitra Petsa, founder and creative director of Di Petsa:
“It’s usually what I was wearing the night before in the all-nighter.”
Huishan Zhang:
“All black, but now I’ve chosen gray — something classic.”
Edward Crutchley:
“I had on a white oversize Balenciaga shirt, Willy Chavarria shorts, my own socks and Dior shoes. The primary concern for me on show day is comfort. There’s a lot to do and organize that the audience never sees. So not having to worry about what I’m wearing and being able to run around is crucial. I want the focus to be on the clothes on the runway, not the ones I’m wearing.”
Edeline Lee:
“I’m always running around at the show, so I normally wear a comfortable all-black outfit, with our atelier lab coat on top. We designed a lab coat for the studio to wear while working. It’s got deep pockets for all the things I need and a belt to clip on my headset.”
Masha Popova:
“There’s a lot of things we can’t put in a show, so I always like to wear the spare looks.”
Molly Goddard:
“No, nothing and I had a meltdown this morning because I realized that nothing fit me. So, I’m not the one to ask, I just threw on the one thing that fit me.”
Susan Fang:
“I usually choose an item from my new collection that wasn’t chosen on the show. It has to be the lucky color of the day based on my birth chart, then I match it with [an item featuring] a special technique for this collection. This time, it was a top that we couldn’t find the perfect bottom for the lineup and since my lucky color of the day was blue, I matched with blue shorts from my personal wardrobe, blue flower headband and earrings that also weren’t selected for the catwalk.”
Marco De Vincenzo takes a bow at the women’s spring 2024 show in Milan.
Aaron Esh:
“I wore a gray knitted jumper from the new collection, a pair of heavy wool Helmut Lang trousers with Prada lace-ups.”
Chet Lo:
“I just wanted to wear something that was in the world of the collection so I thought a thong was a necessity as well as a skirt and top from the collection that we made [as] a prototype so it was quite fun. I never wore a thong on the runway so that was interesting.”
Gong Li, founder and creative director of 8on8:
“Normally I would just wear something clean and casual just to keep my movement at backstage much more comfortable. Unless sometimes I want to take a part of the show as a particular role.”
Ancuta Sarca:
“I wore a long black cotton skirt that was a toile from last season’s presentation, a white mesh zip-up hooded top and my white Furiosa Boots from fall 2023.”
Jiaen Cai, founder and creative director of J E Cai:
“I was wearing one of my standard J E Cai T-shirts from my Algorithmic Modular System system. Within this system. T-shirt style and hoodie style components can be systematically interchanged. It is combined with main T-shirt components and two circle sleeves with shoulder pad components.”
Marie Christine Statz, founder and creative director of Gauchere:
“T-shirt and tailored pants. This is the working uniform when you don’t have time to change.”
Kevin Germanier:
“I have a touch of color: [my sweater] is navy. It’s a running joke that I always wear the same thing — and I am wearing the same jumper from my two last shows.”
Maiko Kurogouchi, designer of Mame Kurogouchi:
“Black, because I am a kuroko [Kabuki stagehand] behind my brand.”
Cecilie Bahnsen:
“I always wear a black smocked dress and something I feel comfortable in but also that enhances the brand.”
Marie Adam-Leenaerdt:
“I take whatever is on hand. [Today’s] look is something that didn’t make the cut for the runway. Otherwise, whatever’s convenient: black T-shirt, black pants…”
Alphonse Maitrepierre:
“Actually today, I’m just feeling like a carrot.”
Rocco Iannone, creative director of Ferrari:
“I try to maintain my look as minimal as possible….I try to represent myself as much as possible and turn the focus to what I am doing.”
Daniele Calcaterra, founder and creative director of Calcaterra:
“I always dress the same, and have been wearing versions of the same outfit for the past 20 years, a roundneck sweater, shirt and trousers — all in black.”
